Donald “Clay” Clay, an Air Force veteran, was enjoying his stogie while chit chatting with friends, watching boats slipping by. On every weekday afternoon when the weather is fine, he and a half dozen of his perennial friends such as Robert “Bleu” Jones and Kimo Tavares gather at the Slip Inn to chill, booze up and snack on the crowd-favorite George wings. No one knows for sure why they call them George, but rumor is one of the cooks from the earliest days in the 80s came up with the secret breading.
The Tiki bar and restaurant wasn’t located in the Navy Yard, Old Town Alexandria or the National Harbor — places packed with tourists. Instead it was tucked away at the edge of Joint Base Anacostia Bolling, a well-kept secret amongst retirees. That’s why Clay, Bleu and a handful of old timers made it a daily ritual when the clouds are clear and the skies are blue.
And the weather forecast for the next three days was bright and promising. There was a ton of activity as military personnel and their families kicked off the glorious weekend with Country Western Night featuring a local, up-and-coming talent.
Sara Gray is a singer, song-writer from Indian Head, MD., just down the beaten river in Southern Maryland. The first time she sang in public was at the age of three on a cruise ship — from the soundtrack of the Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles. She watched her father sing in his local band, then started performing at church and has rendered the National Anthem at various community events. At 16, she wrote her first song and her budding repertoire focuses on country and classic rock. For the last year, her schedule has been in high demand, opening for country stars such as Toby Keith, Dierks Bentley, the Zac Brown Band and Luke Bryan and performing all over the DMV.
Sara Gray covering”Cowboy Take Me Away”Sara Gray loves audience participation
“I’m so happy to be on the stage where I feel right at home. I love getting the crowd involved, clapping, dancing and singing along. They inspire me.”
Justin Voskuil bartending at the Slip Inn Tiki BarSara Gray singing her original “One of A Kind”
Richard Sandoval doesn’t need any introductions or promotions. That’s why I was delighted when the General Manager of Zengo, Frank Ortiz, agreed to have me write a feature story to spotlight their new menu items. I invited Anca Grindeanu, a bartender at the Carving Room, to be a guest blogger for RUNINdc
Before the MCI Center, the home of the Wizards and Capitals was built in 1997, Chinatown was struggling with many restaurants and stores barely hanging on. Then came a wave of restaurants owned by celebrity chefs, such as Zaytinya by Jose Andres and Zengo by Richard Sandoval, which opened as Chinatown became less Chinese.
Zengo which translates to “give and take” in Japanese served up trendy fusion food in an upscale, eye-catching setting. One of the first things that struck me when I walked in was the mysterious orbs hanging from the ceiling as I ascended the stairs. The walls were full of colorful textures and murals with decor from all around the world.
Zengo was a sexy place to get a seat and be seen. Centrally located next to the Chinatown Metro, romanticos and politicos came here to feel glamorous and enjoy the haute cuisine.
We sat at the communal table by the bar, and the staff served us their prix fixe menu.
I took a sip of my ginger-infused bourbon, a sniff of vanilla and ginger to my nose with a slight, almost buttery scent. “Hey Anca, how’s your ceviche and Peking duck tacos?”
“Incredible!” she replied as she sipped on her passion fruit cocktail. “The fusion of Asian and Mexican is surprisingly successful.”
Anca nursing a cocktail
“Yes, what a fun place with spectacular food infused with creativity,” I replied. “Richard Sandoval definitely covers all the bases here.”
Zengo which opened in 2005 was Richard Sandoval’s first foray into D.C.. Since then he’s opened El Centro, Masa 14, and Toro Toro.
“You should check out Toro Toro,” Frank suggested. “It’s a Pan-Latin restaurant that features Latin fusion.”
The next day I gave Heather Freeman’s PR firm a call, and we set a date for another food tasting event.
On June 19, 2014, we held our event at Toro Toro. There we were immediately transported from McPherson Square to South Beach, Miami. If Zengo was sexy and exotic, Toro Toro is glamorous and adventurous. Upstairs is Latin-American fare and downstairs is an opulent lounge where Latin performers take the stage with late-night salsa dancing. The decor is swanky and the atmosphere is cozy and intimate. It’s Zaytinya meets Fogo De Chao and the drinks are boozy and delightful.
As a steak aficionado, I had previously enjoyed the AYCE “Rodizio Experience” where the servers brought out Brazilian skewers and small plates ad infinitum for $79. But today, we would focus on small plates: sweet corn empanadas, plantain chips with smoked guacamole, swordfish dip, tuna tartare, fish tacos, grilled pineapple, and a lot of caipirinhas and mojitos. It also helped that happy hour was from 5-8 pm.
Everyone seemed to be enjoying the food, sangria, and killer conversation.
I found Yoomie Huynh and Kanita Williams at the hors d’oeuvres table digging into the corn empanadas and talking shop.
“You’re always catching me eating!” Yoomie exclaimed.
Yoomie Huynh and Kanita Williams
“I grew up in Staten Island with a large Latino community, and yo amor empanadas,” Kanita said. “Can actually taste the flavor and texture of the creamy corn filling.”
Yoomie took another bite and amazingly cramming down a pie never made her look any less attractive. “This reminds me of the khinkali — meat-filled dumplings — I had in the Republic of Georgia where I served with the Peace Corps in 2011.”
“And Chito take it easy on the caipirinhas,” Kanita warned. “Remember, you’re the host tonight, so you better act like one.”
“They’re definitely easy to drink, but hard to pronounce,” I replied. “And everybody already expects me to lead by example. Don’t forget I was in the Navy.”
“I guess you’re be visiting the bathroom often tonight.”
“As long as I can pet the cowhide on the door, I’ll be fine.”
The usual suspects, Wayne Manigo and Orlando Darden were large and in charge. A few bloggers were also in attendance such as Jessica de Jesús from the Dining Traveler and Laura Hayes from Best Thing on the Menu. Jess is a Marine Corps Reservist who was one of the first women to complete male/female integrated Marine Combat Training in 1997. She was last stationed in Brussels and is now a Marine Corps field grade officer. Khoi, from Albuquerque, NM is an Air Force officer stationed in the Pentagon. In his free time, he travels to major food hubs all over the country to satisfy his epicurean tastebuds.
Khoi Tran
“I only have three great loves: people, food, and travel. Everything else is a consideration.”
“You should become a chef then,” I suggested.
“I had considered going to culinary school after college,” he said “Cooking is indeed an honorable calling.”
“I happened to have attended culinary school, courtesy of the US Department of Veterans Affairs,” Wayne added. “And one of my favorite gigs was cooking for D.C. Central Kitchen. We got up really early to work in the kitchen, but it was for a good cause, so I couldn’t complain.”
“Yeah, I know all about working early in the morning and being sleep deprived,” said Sarah Berghoff, an ER physician in Southern Maryland. “But that’s commendable — taking a stand against homelessness.”
“And we’re glad you’re here. How’s work?” I asked. “Not too stressful I hope.”
“Busy as usual. But I always try to make time to go for a run and yes to attend RUNINOut events.”
“You’re the best sweet Sarah, and my hats off to all the doctors and nurses in the frontline who are saving lives every day.”
I was also delighted to see Deb Santos chatting with Khoi and Orlando. All three had met each other at Tara Temple earlier this month.
“How’s the website going?” She asked.
“I would be lying if I said everything is hunky dory. Have just been overwhelmed lately.”
“I’ve noticed you’re still drinking quite a bit — have you started cutting back?”
“I always have the best of intentions, but when I get to my events, my adrenaline just flows, and I can’t seem to say no.”
“Are you reaching a point where your body and mind start to wear down? You need to stop and check-in and give yourself an opportunity to heal.”
“Yeah, I know. it’s been a huge struggle for me. I’m quite disappointed at myself.”
“You shouldn’t be. You’ve accomplished so much with your startup and events. Stop dimming the light and start feeling your magic. Take a moment to reflect on all you have done, all you are doing and where you’re headed. Big things are happening — don’t hold yourself back.”
When guests were leaving, I made sure to thank everyone for coming.
“C’mon Sarah, for old time’s sake, let’s get a pic together,” I said.
“Ok, but only if you promise to send me a copy,” she said.
Sarah Berghoff
“Of course, it’ll be all over the internet by the time you get home.”
“Hey Khoi, please take a picture of us in front of the entrance. Are you staying for salsa dancing?
“Gotta get going for the next foodie adventure,” he replied. “Lots of restaurants to visit, too little time.”
“Well don’t let salsa get in the way of progress. BTW, how much longer are you going to be at the Pentagon?”
“I’ll be getting ready to deploy to Kosovo for a peacekeeping mission later this fall.”
“Lucky you – Kosovo is a heaven for food lovers. I hope you love the food there.”
“I’ve never tried any dish that I disliked. Food to me is just an extension of culture. It can be different from what I grew up eating. It can be unusual if I haven’t had it before. But I’m betting it will be surprising in the best way.”
“Then what do you think of durian or balut?”
“Tried them both. The smell actually doesn’t offend me.”
“Oh, I heard that Richard Sandoval will be opening a Toro Toro Gastrobar in Serbia pretty soon. Maybe you’ll get a chance to visit and enjoy the sights.”
“Wow, Chef Sandoval is slowly taking over the world, one restaurant at a time, and yes, I’ve heard that Balkan women are very beautiful.”
Had a great time last night at a new D.C. Brazilian restaurant, Toro Toro with my very good friend Chito Peppler whose company, Runin Out was the host of last evening’s menu tasting event! One thing is for sure if you attend his events, you”ll experience cool restaurants, serving delicious foods, and you”ll get to meet/ network with some of D.C.’s most interesting people, who are guests at his events!
I met Wirut just outside the Irish Channel a year ago when he was opening up a noodle and sushi bar next door.
“sah-wah-dee.”
“Have you been to Thailand, the ‘Land of Smiles’?”
“Yes, Phuket, twice, both times by boat — when I was 5, living on a sailboat and at 17 on a frigate with the Navy.”
Wirut came over to show me some pictures of the beautiful island. “I’m from Bangkok but enjoy visiting Phuket. So much to see and do there just like D.C. and the cuisine is out of this world.”
“Couldn’t agree with you more. And I think it’s a wonderful idea to open up an Asian noodle bar here this side of Chinatown. There’s lots of noodle shops here, but almost all are Chinese – so an Asian fusion noodle shop will do well next to an Irish pub. They’ll come here to work off their drunk.”
And I would go to Absolute Noodle and Sushi to work on their website while slurping on udon noodles with bulgogi and sipping on Asian pear sake.
Like with many restaurants, I worked for a paycheck and a tab, so this was an excellent way to invite my friends for a meal and a chance for them to meet the manager and chef.
In early February, I invited food bloggers Jackie Woodbury, Bindesh Shrestha, and Simone Griffin, whom I had worked with on a writing project eons ago. I had not seen her since she spent a year working in China, and Simone loved Asian noodles.
Simone & Jackie reviewing menu with Wirut at Absolute Noodle
Working with Wirut also opened the door to working with their sister restaurant, Absolute Thai, down the road and owned by the couple Nay and Poupee.
Poupee showed me their outdated website. “We need to photograph all the dishes on our menu. Americans find Thai names long and confusing.”
March 11, 2014
I was expecting a large turnout. I invited a lot of friends as well as marketed the event on Meetup. For $5, you got a good sample of a wide variety of dishes from the menu.
The drunken noodles were perfectly spicy, smothered in basil chili oil. The pad see ew’s sauce was sweet and savory. The red curry with roasted duck was creamy with big chunks of pineapple. The curry puffs were crispy and flaky and stuffed with flavorful chunks of goodness.
Owners Nay and Poupee were happy to showcase their savory, spicy flavors to an eclectic group of desk jockeys who were delighted to get out of their cubicles and into the mix.
And I was pleased to greet every one of them.
Kanita serving Orlando Thai crispy wings
Kanita Williams enjoyed the Thai basil fried rice, and the crispy chicken wings with sweet chili sauce poured on top. “Helped a client get a DUI case dismissed today. It wasn’t easy, so everybody here, please catch a train or taxi home.”
“I’m walking, but if I ever get busted for a DUI, I want to be represented by you,” Orlando Darden said as he picked up a piece of chicken wing.”
Quentin Edwards took a bite of his shrimp spring roll dipped in peanut sauce. “Hey, Orlando, careful; those wings may be loaded with MSG.”
“That’s ok, cuz tomorrow, Kanita and I are going for a long run. She’s getting close to fulfilling her 10 lbs weight loss challenge. So I’ll allow her to splurge on special occasions.”
Jackie, Sophie & Yoomie
Jackie took a bite of her crispy vegetarian spring roll. “I’ll say this is a special occasion — a lot larger than the noodle place down the street. We must host an event together sometime.”
This event proved that Thai cuisine is loved by people from all around the world.
Natalia from Ukraine
There was Natalia, a woman from Ukraine, a graduate student at GWU who worked as a bartender at the Tabard Inn, a classic boutique hotel near Dupont Circle.
Sophie Mebarki & Timothy Kim
And Anne-Sophie Mebarki, a French girl who would be completing her bachelor’s from Catholic University this May. “I would like to work for a startup, and I love food. Are you hiring?”
“Absolutely, we have internships available. You should meet Suzannah, who speaks French fluently.
Yoomie Huynh admiring the shrimp noodles
Yoomie Huynh immigrated to Sioux City, Iowa, from South Vietnam with her family in 1985 due to the economic and social aftermaths of the Vietnam War. “Have you heard of Four Sisters in Virginia? Their family serves amazing Vietnamese dishes beyond pho.”
Then there was Quentin Edwards, who lived just a block from me in Anacostia. His Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA) office was a block from the Smithsonian Air & Space Museum. “I work only seven blocks from Chinatown, so I can come to more of your events.”
Quentin Edwards @ Absolute Thai
“Well since you love to run, you are welcome to join our EU Embassy Run this May? It’s kind of like a half marathon combined with an adventure race.”
“Absolutely, I’m planning to do a Tough Mudder this fall, so this will be a good forerunner.”
The views at the Georgetown waterfront were busy with paddle boarders launching from the Key Bridge Boathouse and lunchers enjoying the open patio seating at Sequoia and Tony & Joe’s Seafood Place. Bikers were crisscrossing the Capital Crescent trail on their way to Bethesda or Cabin John. Runners and strollers were enjoying the historic C&O Canal stopping at the numerous bakeries and coffee shops to grab a bite or to enjoy the rich, sweet aroma.
While kids were splish-splashing in the fountain and grown-ups were getting their feet wet, Sunita Amatya was sitting on the side of the river, praying for the thousands of lives lost thousands of miles away.
On April 25, 2015, a 7.6 magnitude earthquake struck the city of Kathmandu in central Nepal killing 9,000 people, affecting millions of lives, and causing $10 billion in damage.
“May the tragic and devastating situation get better with Divine grace. May all five elements of the creation (earth, water, fire, space, and air) be balanced forever and will there be no more natural disasters,” she chanted towards her Supreme Deity.
The common belief is that to experience enlightenment one must be quiet and sit motionlessly. But that couldn’t be further from the truth. Then as her prayers to Dharma were received, her devotion transformed to dance as hundreds of sightseers and gawkers were entranced by her majestic movements. But this was not a performance. Sunita was touching her dimension beyond her limited mind and body. It was an inner engineering language to express life energy while using the body as an instrument.
Suddenly out of the corner of her eye, she saw a spirited straggle of runners. Not just any runners that you would see spurting all over the pristine paths of D.C. But these exuberant runners were adorned in bright red Embassy Run shirts, matching their crimson red Nepali flags they were waving. The color symbolizes the brave spirits of the Nepalese people and the two triangular pennants represent the Himalaya Mountains and the two major religions: Hinduism and Buddhism.
The astounding sight was too coincidental to be a coincidence. She quickly rose and with the enlightened spirit of Buddha followed the throng to a neighborhood saloon on Water Street called Mr. Smith’s.
For a second, she wondered whether she belonged here. The pub was unassuming and low-key, and there she saw what seemed like a hundred road-weary warriors all dressed in crimson red, nursing a cold Dos Equis.
“Saw you guys running by the waterfront. Are you running for Nepal?” she asked gingerly.
“Absolutely, we’ve been running 13 miles and raising awareness for survivors of the earthquake,” I answered. “Are you from Nepal?”
“Why yes, I was just at the park praying and dancing for the plight of our people. And Prince Shiva led me down this path to join your gathering.”
“That’s quite poignant. We were devastated when we heard about the earthquake, and we wanted to use our run as a vehicle to raise awareness and funds.”
“Then Prince Siddhartha answered my prayers. My son, Sudin, and I are also raising money for recovery and relief, but our efforts to date have fallen short.”
“I think there are ways that we can collaborate. But first, tell me why dancing is so transformative.”
“Dancing helps us purify our thoughts and heart and heals us from physical and mental pain. It’s to let God in and to let go of any negativity — to attain bliss.”
“Wonderful, Audrey Pichmimi said. “Can you show us outside how you perform your dance?”
Sunita showed us how to dance for enlightenment on the Georgetown Waterfront
The following Thursday evening, a couple of dozen revelers, runners, and members of the Newah Organization of America (NOA) amassed at Courthaus Social in Arlington to honor the people of Nepal, discuss earthquake relief opportunities, and enjoy music and dance.
Sudin plays Sax @ Courthaus Social
Sunita brought her talented son 16-year-old, Sudin who played the sax and sang traditional folk music. The music carried powerfully through the outdoor patio on a warm spring night, and many onlookers inquired about the cause — NOA was able to also receive generous donations from those who were deeply touched and wanted to show their support.
We charged $20 for entry which included a wide selection of appetizers. Jackie was instrumental again, spreading the word and getting people to book the event through her site, Bookalokal
Audrey, who was enamored with Sunita’s faith, returned to help raise money and to enjoy Nepali music.
By the end of the night, we were able to present NOA with a check for $1,000
Members of NOA receiving a donation from the Nepal Relief Fundraiser
“We are extremely grateful for your spirit of generosity,” said Ram Shrestha, president of NOA. “We will be able to provide medical supplies and build temporary shelters with these funds.”
“Thank you very much,” Sunita said. “This divine circumstance proves that praying and dancing is indeed transformative.”
“It’s our great pleasure, to serve a small part in this. I’m now a true believer in the power of spiritual dancing. My thoughts and prayers to the courageous people of Nepal.”
I was driving back from Front Royal, VA, the gateway to the Shenandoah National Park, when I got an unexpected call from a long-time restaurateur friend.
“Manuel, it’s great to hear from you. How’s the Iguina family?”
“Wife and kids are fine. We’re launching a new restaurant theme on H Street.”
“Really, Latin, Puerto Rican?”
“Neither one, I just got hired as the Director of Operations by Ben’s Chili Bowl.”
“Wow, chili and half-smokes – a local legacy. Congrats!”
“Yes, it’s a true iconic symbol, but we’ll be focusing on a totally different cuisine – Southern with a twist of Caribbean.”
“Sweet my friend, on U Street?”
“No, above the new location on 1001 H Street – we’ll be changing its name from Ten 01 to Ben’s Upstairs in “a few weeks.”
That makes a helluva lot of sense. The Ben’s name holds a massive amount of clout. What worked on U Street with Ben’s and Ben’s Next Door should work on H.”
“Yes, we’re thrilled beyond belief, and I would love for you to join our team.”
The following week, I met with Nizam Ali, owner and Vice Chair of the Ben’s Chili Bowl Foundation; Manuel and his Chef who hails from North Carolina, Quinton Mitchell. We formulated a plan to photograph their space and savory dishes, develop a website theme that captures their unique character and aggressively market the space to locals and tourists.
“H Street Fest is the biggest block party in D.C.,” Nizam asserted. “We want to launch Upstairs in conjunction with the Festival and hope that people from all over come in and sample our cuisine and experience our renowned, timeless brand.”
Similar to the iconic lunch counter on U Street with Ben’s Next Door, a historical American restaurant, Ben’s Upstairs featured a full service bar as well as a covered rooftop space offering stunning sunset views.
H Street was once a thriving economic corridor. But after the ’68 riots, the area was devastated. Similarly, U Street was ravaged to ruins after the riots. Businesses were damaged and smoldered, but Ben’s Chili Bowl stayed opened even through the many nights of curfew. Ben’s fed first responders and black activists, and served as a peaceful gathering place and safe haven for all.
Kay’s Jewelers and Morton’s Department Store burned down during April 1968 riots. Overall, more than 1,100 buildings in D.C. were damaged and the middle-class fled to the suburbs to seek safety and open space. People did not return for 20 years, and it wasn’t until the start of the 21st century that people began to invest in their community and redevelop the battered corridor.
That’s why Ben’s Chili Bowl is such a revered landmark. President Obama and national celebrities frequently dropped by to grab a bite, and for many world leaders, it’s a rite of passage after visiting the White House.
“Our slogan is Southern-influenced cuisine food with a hint of Caribbean flavors,” Nizam announced.
“Fried oysters Po-Boy with citrus aioli, fried green tomato BLT with ancho chile lime mayo, jerked salmon and lobster roll with arugula and roasted peppers, whole fried snapper served with coconut mojo are our featured dishes,” Quinton revealed. “And Manuel also assists since he’s from the enchanting island of PR.”
“Also love the stuffed yucca and green plantains as well as the mac ‘n’ cheese studded with crawfish,” Manuel shared.
“My father Ben was born in Trinidad and my mother Virginia is from Southern Virginia. We want our new menu to reflect the Ben’s family roots,” Nizam remarked.
“And the drinks are very much Latin/Caribbean featuring Bacardi mint Mojitos, Mezcal Margaritas, and Stoli Raspberry Sangrias,” Manuel informed. “Very comparable to my Little San Juan.”
“Thanks for all this timely information. I need to ask for a favor. “I have a friend who just arrived from Jamaica. Can you get her a job?”
“If she has a green card, she’ll fit right in,” Manuel replied. “And BTW, will you be inviting food bloggers like you did at Mio?”
“Super idea — food bloggers and social media influencers.”
Who me also a food model? Well when my good friend Chito invites me to join him as he samples a new restaurant’s menu, what else can I say but YES! At the two weeks old new #benschillibowl on H St. As I sample the variety of dishes, all I can think is that this restaurant has transcended it’s legendary staple of #chillihotdogs and fries! Very satisfied with the experience.
On Saturday, Sept 17, during the H Street Festival, Ben’s Chili Bowl welcomed eaters and spectators to the 4th Annual Half Smoke Eating Contest.
Tens of thousands streamed along the 11-block corridor looking to taste wholesome food and experience diverse culture and fun.
Half Smoke Eating Contest
What is unique about the D.C. half smoke? Is it because it’s half pork and half beef? Or is it Ben’s original spice mix that is a well-kept family secret. Or maybe because it’s grilled on both sides on a hot griddle until perfectly charred. Whatever the reason, the sausage placed on a lightly steamed bun, dowsed with yellow mustard, sprinkled with chopped white onions and smothered with the famous, generation-old chili sauce has become D.C.’s signature dish.
As usual, Virginia Ali, the Matriarch of the D.C. restaurant world, was busy running the restaurant, cooking half smokes and cleaning tables.
Eight lucky participants got to enjoy the sweet, smoky half smokes, grilled to perfection, to see who could consume them the fastest.
Mary Jones set a local record by devouring eight half-smokes in eight minutes — a feat that could put Joey Chestnut to shame.
Vida Ali congratulates Mary Jones for winning the Half Smoke Eating Contest.
Ben’s stage also showcased some of D.C.’s hottest local artists such as Rare Essence, Ozone, Renee and Wooty 95
After the contest and concert, fans filed into Ben’s to grab a chili dog with chili cheese fries or Upstairs to grab a Southern Caribbean sandwich paired with a Mojito.
A beautiful, full-figured woman with long, black hair and a thick, rich accent served me a Caribe cupcake with a Red Stripe.
[ Image: Kiomey Ben’s Upstairs.png ]
Kamara @ Ben’s Upstairs
“Thank you kindly Kimara. What a great time for you to start working here.”
“I’ll swing by shortly to see if you want another one.”
“Thanks, but one beer is all I’m gonna have today.”
“What are you on a diet?”
“I’m trying to taper off, and attending these events and festivals ain’t making it any easier.”
The festival was amazing and the launch was a smashing success. Now it was time to stroll down the avenue to watch other local talents and dancers perform. Cheers to H Street! This community has become a veritable playground for foodies and art and music aficionados alike.
I wanted to remain in this vibrant city and enjoy all the perks she had to offer — her culture, the restaurant scenes, the melting pot — but part of me told me it was time to move on..to head west towards the mountains and valleys, where I would find respite and healing.
One sunny weekend during the fall of 2013. The restaurant scene in G-Town was abuzz with tourist activity. I passed Georgetown Piano Bar and then Jinx Tattoo parlor, soothing sounds of reggae music emanated from the brown brick establishment. Bandolero was next and this is where I hoped I would cut my first big deal.
I was taken aback by the “Day of the Dead” atmosphere complete with metal cemetery gates and faux animal skulls hanging eerily on the walls. The interior was dark, the music deafening, the entire ambience spooky and western-chic.
I sat at the bar and ordered suckling pig tacos and grilled corn on the cob. The bartender poured me “El Bandolero”, their house Margarita on tap. He garnished it with lime and it was delectably rimmed with citrus salt.
After my meal, I waited anxiously, wondering whether I should order another cocktail.
Luckily, when I turned around, I came face to face with the Top Chef, himself, Mike Isabella. He wore his usual gray short sleeve chef coat, his right arm adorning a brass-knuckled pizza cuter tattoo, and on his left a brand new Mexican Cowboy. He was clean-shaven and wore a big smile. But his voice was gruff and he seemed dismissive.
“Thank you for showing me your website, but we’re not interested in your service. We have our own publicist and graphic designer. Our business is doing just fine.”
“How ’bout hosting an event here, say 20-30 people, select appetizers, social media coverage, you name it?”
“You’re welcome to speak to our manager to arrange an event. But we’re quite busy as it is, and we won’t be comping any meals.”
Shortly, after Isabella went back to the open kitchen, I returned to my pedicab and quietly rode to my next stop. As I steered down L St towards the GWU campus, I passed Bar McFadden’s to my left and 51st State Bar to my right, both great establishments to catch a game after work. But for now, I had seen my share of D.C. eateries. Tomorrow, I would venture into the Commonwealth to engage with other Top Chefs.
Crystal City, VA. has for many years been the home of military contractors and govies. During lunch and happy hour, they perennially congregate on restaurant row or at José Andrés’ Jaleo enjoying traditional as well as cutting-edge flavors.
Adjacent to Jaleo on Crystal Drive was Chef Morou’s Kora, a trattoria-style Italian restaurant that opened a couple of years ago.
As I approached the street-side glass doors, fondant blue jays chirped from olive trees that billowed over the sidewalk.
When I entered, I was greeted with dangling tree branches. Glowing tree canopies created a sense of intimacy. On the wall behind the kiln-fired pizza oven, decal tree branch silhouettes conferred a feeling of calm and relaxation.
I sat at the bar and ordered a Dark & Stormy. Then devoured a slice of the chicken pesto pizza.
Minutes later, Chef Morou entered with his crisp, white chef coat.
I sat at the bar and ordered a Dark & Stormy. Then devoured a slice of the chicken pesto pizza.
Minutes later, Chef Morou entered with his crisp, white chef coat.
I immediately recognized him. Slim and handsome with a pencil-thin mustache and goatee. The winner of an Iron Chef America competition in D.C., Chef Morou challenged Bobby Flay in Season 3.
“Love the ambience. It’s so sophisticated and chic.”
“Thank you, I got your email and looked over your site.”
Chef Morou who grew up on the Ivory Coast cooks like he talks “American with an accent.”
“So would love to build a new website for you to go with your contemporary design.”
“Well, I know a thing or two about tech, I studied computer science in college. But lately I’ve been quite busy scouting a location for another restaurant in D.C. and launching my African spice lines.”
“I understand that you’re very busy. That’s why you should hire us to promote your restaurant and feature your dishes.”
“Yes, I have a big event tonight in Farrah Olivia that I have to plan.”
“Super, Bien, et toi.”
Although Morou was still contemplating, his response was more favorable and warm. I returned to my batmobile and rode through restaurant row
The following week, I got a text message from Morou.
“Thanks for visiting. My wife, Heather, says your service is nice but not needed.”
“I know that marketing and social media is considered the low-hanging fruit, but it’s extremely valuable to increase sales.”
“We have a lot of overhead. Our restaurant is gigantic and our ceilings are 24 feet high – you can fit a church in here. Our utility bill alone is sky high.”
“I totally understand Chef, but what if we hosted an event. We would invite 20-30 people, you comp the meals and we in return will feature your cuisine all over social media.”
The next day, I contacted Michael Galang, founder of Thursday Connect to see if he would help promote the event. Each person would pay $20 and we would split the proceeds.
Morou was born and raised on the Ivory Coast in West Africa and learned how to cook by watching his mother prepare feasts for their large family of 33 children. When he immigrated to America in 1988, he was hired as a dishwasher at Ristorante I Ricchi and was eventually promoted when a co-worker quit an hour before opening. Eventually, Morou was hired as the executive chef for Signature. Lobbyist Abramoff, who owned the restaurant, frequently provided free meals to sway lawmakers. Tom DeLay, Bob Ney and John Doolittle were his favorite guests
But after the scandal hit the news, politicos no longer wanted to be seen at the restaurant, and the restaurant was doomed to join D.C. Eater’s list of Closures.
On the morning of the event, there were only 10 RSVPs and a few more that indicated interest. But we had room at our table for 20, and we needed butts in every seat.
It was then, that I gave my good friend Jackie a call.
“Hey Hon, we need a big favor. How quickly can you contact your friends to come to an Italian dinner at 7?”
“I’ll go through our listserv with BookaLokal (marketplace for group dining experiences) and see what I can arrange.”
“You helped me tremendously with the Chinese feast at Ming’s, if you could pull a monkey out of the hat, I would be indebted to you for life.”
Two hours prior to the event, Michael and I waited anxiously hoping for a decent turnout. We paced up and down the restaurant along the purple walls, passing the colorful Andy Warhol-like portrait of his three-year-old daughter, Farrah.
We nibbled on calamari and sipped on Heavy Sea Lager. Little by little people started to trickle in. By dinner time, over 25 guests had shown up. We had met and exceeded all expectations.
We were able to photograph all the dishes and were able to garner all the content necessary to feature them on RUNINOut.
Unfortunately, Suzannah couldn’t make it. She birthed the idea of visiting celebrity Chefs but she was now working on her own startup idea. I didn’t expect to keep someone that talented for very long.
And Jackie, who came through in the clutch, did not have to pay a dime. All her food and beverages were comped by me. She had become my go-to miracle worker, and someone I would rely on whenever I got in a jam. There would be many more jams and like a 9th inning relief pitcher, we hoped to escape them all.
“What a smashing event. What’s next on your plate?” Michael asked.
“Haven’t given it much thought. It’s football season, so perhaps a Florida Gators watch party?”
“Yeah, sports is nice, but you can’t always rely on me to help out,” Jackie commented.
“I could use ten of you, frankly.”
“Then you should interact with the D.C. food bloggers. Chef Morou and other restauranteurs like him needs lots of coverage and publicity.”
After dinner, there wasn’t much nightlife activity on Crystal Drive, so Jackie and I and a few others crossed Route 1 to 23rd St where there is a small, bustling enclave with a bundle of hookah shops and international eateries
Right in the center stands Freddie’s Beach Bar, Northern Virginia’s longest-running gay bar. The beach-themed, purple-lavish bar is adorned with rainbow flags and pink flamingos. Freddie Lutz, who grew up down the hill, has owned the business for over 12 years. He is an affable man, a respected community leader, and has been working in the industry for over 35 years.
He opened Café Italia 20 years ago and then decided to open up a Gay bar up the road.
Before the repeal of “Don’t Ask, Don’t Tell” many gay service members were in the closet. All it took was someone to even think you were gay to report you. That’s why Freddie’s served as a safe refuge because it was advertised as a “straight-friendly” bar. This gave everyone protection – they won’t have to worry about being seen because straight people went there too.
When we walked in, we knew right away we were going to have fun. The bar was filled with patrons knocking back pints of Devil’s Backbone. A Ballard from Doris Day was belting in the background.
We found Freddie himself going table to table, mingling with customers like he was a council member.
“Freddie’s is the most diverse bar that I know of. It bridges the gap between the straight and gay communities – that’s one of the most magical things about us,” he said.
After chatting with Freddie and ordering our cocktails, I came upon two of my friends who had actually been my tenants for eight years.
Dywayne and Ty were enjoying the music, ambience, and cuisine.
“We just came from dinner at Kora across the street. You guys need to come to one of our events,” I suggested. “How’s Wade Road?”
“Everything in the apartment is fine. Will pencil that in on our calendar. By the way, you can come by Home Depot sometime and pick up your rent,” Ty said. “Unless you just want me to mail it to you.”
“Home Depot is fine. I gotta buy some supplies anyway. Can I find you at the Customer Service Desk?”
“Absolutely. You know which days I’m off. I can’t hide from you.”
“Freddie’s is such a great place to get together. We need one of these in every city,” Dywayne said.
“Couldn’t agree with you more. It’s such a great atmosphere.”
Despite Freddie’s popularity, gay bars today are dwindling since many bars have accepted the LGBTQ culture and have adopted drag shows to their regular performances. Freddie’s has been a huge building block for the community and fortunately will be here to stay.
“Next time, you have a craving for pasta, visit Café Italia down the road. They’ve been a fixture here since 1976.”
“Will do. And thanks for bridging the gap in our community.”
“Thanks for coming over,” Freddie said. “See you at Freddie’s Follies on Saturdays.”
Back then, Freddie’s and the D.C. sports bar Nellie’s were one of the few venues that featured drag brunch. Now it’s so popular that mainstream venues are serving up drag with their eggs benedict like it was just a cover band.
Sarah Berghoff was out with friends and wanted to visit a brand new spot in Shaw for cocktails and Asian-inspired cuisine. Upon entry, a 1920’s style mural with an icon of Charlie Chaplin came into view. The space was elegant with a speakeasy vibe. On the wall above the bar, The Tramp played on a reel.
A tall, burly man with a big smile came over and greeted them.
“Hi, I’m Armin. Welcome to Chaplin’s. We’re a ramen, cocktail, and dumpling bar.”
“What does Charlie Chaplin have to do with Ramen?” Sarah asked.
“Well, the legendary silent film star was adored in Japan. That’s because he could make people laugh without uttering a word.”
“What a charming connection. What do you recommend?”
“If you like your spirits strong, I recommend the Tramp. It’s Bourbon with a burnt orange peel. For ramen, I recommend the ASS.”
“Excuse me?”
“ASS – Asian Spicy Sour. chicken chashu, coconut milk, chicken broth, and pork butt. It’s our take on the ever-popular Tom Yum soup with noodles imported from Japan.”
Several minutes after Sarah and her friends sat down, the bartender with a cool Chaplin-style outfit served them their classy cocktails.
Armin came by again to see what they thought of the innovative cocktail menu.
“Fabulous. I can see you have broad experience in this industry.”
“Yes, I’ve worked in this business for over 20 years. At the Capitol City Brewery and most recently at the Saint Arnold’s Mussel Bar.”
“Amazing sounds like you’re a powerful force in the restaurant industry.”
“Well, the co-owners are bartender brothers, Ari and Micah Wilder – owners of Red Light on 14th Street – we’re a star-studded class.”
“You know there’s someone you should meet that’s an up-and-comer in this industry. He’s a quintessential foodie and has a finger on the pulse in this industry.”
Armin with Sarah
The next day I got a call from Armin.
“So Sarah speaks highly of you. I thought I was the Big Man on Campus.”
“You’re a rockstar, Armin. All I do is promote restaurants and host some events. You’re the brains behind your brand and do all the heavy lifting.”
“Well, we sure could use some help with marketing and developing our web presence. When we opened a few months ago, we were named The Chaplin. Now his estate is threatening a lawsuit so we changed it to Chaplin’s”
“I can help with the name change and ensure that your website and social media reflects the new and improved branding.”
The following week, I met with Armin and his co-owners, brothers Ari and Micah Wilder as they gave me a spirited tour of their cozy space.
The vibe and ambience were warm and welcoming and the Laughing Gas cocktail I ordered was potent and bursting with flavors.
“We figured out a way to compress carbon dioxide with helium,” said Micah. “You’re gonna sound really funny and everyone’s gonna be laughing at you.”
I also met Chef Myo Htun, a native of Burma who cooked under a Master Ramen Chef in Tokyo for 30 years.
“Chef Myo is a tireless worker,” Armin said. “He’s worked every day since we’ve opened. We should make him a co-owner one day.”
Chef Myo Htun
Chef Myo served me the Tonkotsu Ramen with the broth made from boiling pork neck bones – the collagen in the connective tissue transforms into gelatin, which gives the broth its silky texture. Inside the bowl were melt-in-your-mouth chasu pork belly and soft boiled eggs with custardy egg yolk.
“Your ramen kicks ass, Armin. I would love to host our next get-together here and invite all ramen enthusiasts to celebrate Shaw’s hottest, new setting.”
“Sounds like a fabulous idea. If we could also do a fundraiser for Bread for the City, that would be great also.”
The next month on October 22, 2014, dozens of ramen and cocktail fans converged at the downstairs bar for a private event.
Christine arrived early as usual and secured a spot at the bar.
“Hey Chris, good to see you. How was the military ball with Khoi?”
“The Vietnamese-American Military Banquet was an overwhelming experience with lots of shiny uniforms, great food, and formal traditions — we had a blast.”
“I can picture that. I’ve been to a few military balls myself. They can be quite fun. “
“Met so many amazing Vietnamese Americans and they gave each of us a commemorative coin.”
“Carry it around with you — it’s a good luck charm.”
“And I wish the best to Khoi as he heads to Kosovo for a six-month peacekeeping mission.”
To kick things off, many guests were introduced to the payday adult-only dumplings — infused with Japanese whiskey. You could choose from a steamed shrimp dumpling on a whiskey sour named The Cold War, a hot pork dumpling on a lemon emulsion, or a hot beef dumpling with Japanese whiskey.
“This is what happens when a couple of bartenders open up a restaurant,” Micah declared.
I’ve tried all three, and Micah told me to tap on the brakes. So I was happy to entertain guests to see which one they preferred.
BJ enjoying the dumplings
BJ McDuffie sampled The Cold War. “Mmm, the shrimp shooters are savory and boozy–a perfect combination. I’m ready for the next one.”
I ordered a Payday from Margaux behind the bar. “How was Drink the District BJ?”
“Meh, could be better — it was a scorching, hot day. But this is even hotter.”
“So, what have you been up to lately?”
“Bowling, bocce, and brunch — that ’bout sums it up.”
“Have you been to Alba Osteria in NOMA? They serve an awesome brunch and have a bocce parklet outside.”
“Not yet, but I’m a fan of Roberto Donna.”
“How about Myo Htun – what do you think of his culinary skills?”
Christine Bach enjoying the Cure & ASS
“By the juiciness of these dumplings, Chef Myo ranks up there with José Andrés and Richard Sandoval.”
As expected, our resident comic made a showing.
“One of my favorite indie chefs is Erik Bruner-Yang,” said Wayne Manigo. “And with my cooking skills and an endless supply of ramen, I could give Toki Underground a run for their money.”
“What if you’re a butterfly, but you’re too busy being a caterpillar?”
“Mine is Chef Anh Luu, who cooks Cajun/creole with Vietnamese ingredients,” Christine said. “And I like my ramen spicy, so I’m here to kick some A.S.S.” While she waited, she ordered the Cure, and Micah blow-torched a piece of rosemary on her fruity cocktail.
“Yeah, I know it’s all presentation, but I swear it does taste better,” she said.
Wayne took a taste of Christine’s Cure. “Please pour me a damn drink !! Do not put any herbs and spices in my cocktail that is only for food and also don’t light the dam thing on fire either!”
Armin put a hand on Wayne’s shoulder. “What makes Chaplin’s stand out from all the rest is the personality of our bartenders. People come from near and far just to have Jake (Jacob Simpson), Said, or Margaux pour them a drink, ask them how their day is going and tell a kickass joke. You’re hired.”
Margaux Donati mixed a Vagabond cocktail. “We love you boss. You’re a true friend.”
It was also good to see Deb Santos again.
“Hey Big Shot, how’s your growth?”
“A long, hard struggle and still tripping.”
“That’s normal. It’s important to show some self-compassion for your blunders. Don’t regret the things you have done as much as the things you never did. It’s better to get up and do something rather than nothing, and right now, you’re the big-time host of this fabulous party, so you should be grateful.”
“I can always rely on you for wise advice Deb. Still haven’t cut back on my drinking though.”
“Alcohol is a depressant and keeps us at a lower vibration. Try limiting yourself to two drinks and take small sips and plenty of water in between.”
“Limiting myself to two drinks is like telling my pitbull, he can’t eat my ice cream.”
“What if you’re a butterfly, but you’re too busy being a caterpillar?”
When Sarah arrived, I was pleased to show her my new business card. She liked the running Orangutan logo popping out on a yellow background. But when she turned it over, she nearly flipped out.
Sarah showing her picture to friends
“Whoa, you put my picture on the back!!”
“Well, you said you wanted to see the picture of us at Toro Toro.”
“But not on your business card.”
“But, your face is more interesting than mine,” I explained. “No worries, you’re not the only one — I also put Kanita and Jackie on there, too.”
“Well, I’m honored to be promoting your website,” she replied in jest.
“And I’m honored to have you serve as our de facto brand ambassador. After all, you introduced me to Armin and Chaplin’s.”
Later that evening inside the Opium Den, Armin and I were slurping on some ASS.
“So what do you do for fun?” He asked.
“Besides running and drinking, I like to go paddleboarding on the Potomac. I normally launch from the Slip Inn on (Joint Base) Bolling.”
“Right on bro. I love boating myself. We like to take the Chaplin’s crew and launch from Edgewater (MD).”
“So the neighborhood is continuing to change. What are your plans moving forward?”
“Perhaps adding a sushi joint next door or building an American diner across the street.”
I took a sip of the Kid cocktail “Would it be another Hollywood-inspired name?”
“Yes, Shawshank Diner comes to mind–one of the best movies ever made..”
“And Shaw is one of the city’s hippest up-and-coming neighborhoods,” I said.
“Indeed, my beloved community is still very much on the move. This is why I love this city.”
“I’ll drink to that — another round of yummy shooters, please. Take it easy on the whiskey.”
I looked over my shoulders and could swear I saw the stern eyes of Deb keeping me in check.
The A.S.S. is so savory, you can drink it by the bowl
